Destination: Naejangsan National Park
NaeJangsan National Park
The Bike’n Hike concept was born out of a failed backpacking trip to Jirisan National Park in February of 2014. For whatever reason the logistics of that trip weren’t coming together so we opted to ditch the car, grab some bikes and head to a closer National Park. That park was of course Naejangsan. Since February we have done six Bike’n Hike trips to five of the surrounding National Parks…three of those trips were to this little park to the north. It’s not by accident that we keep returning.
Traditionally these mini-bike tours have been a minimum of three days. This was our first attempt to squeeze it all in a weekend. Luckily we weren’t without willing participants. Gibby and Jay were the first two to arrive from Seoul and after a bit of drama with cranky taxi drivers and unwelcome rain storms, we headed to a local 고기 집 to fill up on BBQ and booze and wait for the others.
Once Sunghoon and John arrived in Gwangju we quickly met up and set off for The Damyang House
, which would serve as our home base of sorts for the weekend. The slick (wet) roads prevented us from taking the scenic route through Mudeung National Park
, but it was dark and getting late anyhow so it seemed a better use of time to head straight back to the house. The ride itself is under 20km and less than an hour. The rain had stopped at some point during dinner so we were able to avoid getting soaked on the ride home and had an opportunity to enjoy a campfire and the surrounding bamboo forest once we arrived.
The Damyang House
The next morning we scraped together a nice breakfast, got our gear in order and hit the road.
Not everyone was happy about us leaving.
One of the (many) appealing aspects of the trip to Naejangsan is the roads that lead to and from the park. They’re well maintained and largely underused so traffic is never really an issue. There are two climbs during the 50km ride to the park entrance, but without them the day might be too easy. Not to mention, the descent into the park makes it absolutely worth it!
Moments before disaster…sorry Gibby!
A quick rest before the big climb of the day.
The climb begins.
We arrived at the park in under four hours, which gave us plenty of time to tackle the “hike” portion of the Bike’n Hike adventure. The relatively easy ride to the park is quickly forgotten once you hit the park trails…they’re unforgiving and head pretty much straight up to the mountain ridge that circles around the park. We were in a race with time (sunset) so completing the ridge hike was out of the question as it takes pretty much all day to hit all eight peaks. It’s highly recommended if you have the time though…it’s an incredible hike. Our goal was simply to get up to the ridge, grab a few photos and bask in the sense of accomplishment. After four hours of cycling that’s easier said than done.
We made it!
Taking a break.
Time to head back.
After climbing down the mountain we hopped back on our bikes and rode the 2km back to the park entrance where you’ll find a street of restaurants, a minbak neighborhood and a bit of nightlife (read: a CU Mart). There are loads of cheap minbaks (about 10,000/person) clustered together at the top of the hill. The lady at 촛불 is especially nice and her minbak sits highest up on the hill with a red sign. You can’t miss it.
The restaurants around aren’t really anything to write home about honestly. They are loads of them, but they oddly all serve the same menu. I’ve been to five or six of them and can’t say anything really stood out enough that I’d recommend it. If nothing else it’s a good place to catch your breath with some 동동주 and 파전 post-hike.
We hit the CU after dinner for a few beers and made friends with some of the local wildlife. As the temperature dropped and fatigue slowly set in we said goodbye to our new friend and got some much needed rest.
The next morning we headed towards the nearest town, Jeong-Eup, to get breakfast at a restaurant we found last time we were in the area. This place is much cheaper and the food is a thousand times better…sadly I didn’t get a photo or even the name of the place! I can say it’s on the right side of the road, just past the turnoff for road 21 that leads you back towards Damyang (and up the biggest climb of the day!). The turn for road 21 isn’t clearly marked when heading north on road 49 towards Jeong-Eup so look for the big red love motel…this is where you’ll need to take a right!
Big Red Love Motel
The ride home to Damyang (or the Gwangju bus station) is about 70 or 80kms and starts off with a bang. This climb through the valley is actually really enjoyable and while it’s quite long, it’s not as steep as some of the other climbs on this route (four in total). And of course once you’re at the top, you’re met with a nice downhill to catch your breath. The whole afternoon is filled with valleys and underused roads. It’s gorgeous.
Selfie at the top of the mountain.
Headed to Damyang.
After fixing John’s bike, we turned off on road 29 which heads south through Damyang “city” and back to The Damyang House. This road is scenic in its own right as it passes by Damyang Lake and the iconic Chuwolsan, which overlooks Damyang and can be seen from miles away. Of course there’s another scenic valley to pass through as well.
Valley to Damyang.
We eventually ended up in Damyang and stumbled upon the Namdo Food Festival, which looked pretty damn fun, but was much too big of an endeavor to take on this late in the game. We instead headed to one of Damyang’s famous Galbi restaurants
which didn’t disappoint. It’s embarrassing how much BBQ’d pork they gave us.
Namdo Food Festival
At this point in the trip it sort of felt like someone hit the fast forward button. Certainly one of the bigger down-sides to trying to accomplish so much in a two-day weekend. I think we’d all agree that another night/day to soak it all in would have been nice. Regardless, it was an action packed 48 hours and I look forward to doing it all again soon (Wolchulsan anyone?)!!!
*all photos by Sean Walker, Sunghoon Cho, Jay Diaz, John McDermott and Mark Gibby Johnson…thanks for sharing guys!