The previous restaurant in this location, a steamed chicken place, shut down late last year for unknown reasons. A shame because it was a tasty restaurant and also the location Uncle Jung chose to introduce us to the village when we first bought property here. They also served some of the oldest and funkiest kimche around.
Seoul based artist Chung Park has left his mark on Jeollanam-Do, both literally and figuratively. Having two exhibits under his belt at the new up-and-coming Salt Art Gallery located in Gwangju, he’s no stranger to the area. We were happy to snag the “Beacon” piece at the first show and have it proudly on display in the entrance way of the house; it’s the first thing you see when you enter.
My increasing obsession with sotdae (솟대) is directly proportional to the amount of time I’ve spent in the countryside over the last couple of years. They’re easy to write off as “ducks on a stick”, but like most things in Asian culture have a much deeper meaning and significance. Disney, unfortunately, has done no favors for these sacred migratory birds in western culture. In contrast, here’s an example of one of many quotes on the Wikipedia page for sotdae, “It was believed that ducks travel to the world beyond the Earth and act as a messenger between the physical world and the realm of the spirits.” Damn.
It’s no secret Chung is a friend of The Damyang House, so convincing him to bring his talents back down to Jeolla-Do once more for a mural at the house was an easy sell. Finding time was another story. Alas, the planets aligned and it all came together this past weekend. Sotdae now guard both entrances of the house and add a splash of color to an otherwise empty outside wall space.
It was an action packed weekend at the house and we’re happy to share all the gory details. Special thanks to Jay Diaz for helping to both participate in, and document the madness.
Day 1 – Chung gets started:
Day 3 – Finished work.
Well deserved thank you’s to Chung Park for the mural, Jay Diaz for the photos and Riser for hosting…and the whole crew for putting up with me for the weekend. Boom!
For starters, it offers more “bang for your buck” than any trail in the area. It’s got a bamboo forest, a pine forest, giant boulders, ancient pagodas and a pretty amazing overlook just towards the end that acts as the cherry on top (it’s all downhill from there!).
Next, it’s extremely accessible. The trailhead is in the front yard (literally) and the trail ends just on the other side of the village. No need to walk along the busy main road, ride a bike or drive anywhere.
Lastly, it’s the perfect length; long, but not too long. At around 2 hours, it’s just long enough to make it feel like you accomplished something and earned that second helping of chicken pot pie. You can even cheat and head straight up to the overlook by doing the hike in reverse. From the front door you can be looking out over the entire valley and Mudeung National Park while enjoying a cup of makoli in less than 20 minutes (double that if you’re my wife).
In the front yard, to the left of the fence, you’ll find the trail. This trail runs behind the fence and out to the road in the village so it’s not uncommon to see hikers passing through.
At the top of the first climb, you’ll come to a small ridge and a trail marker. Here’s the secret to this hike: take a left EACH time you see one of these trail markers. That will loop you back around the valley to the other side of the village.
As I mentioned, after the first climb and at the first trail marker you’ll take a left (always a left) and continue up the mountain (if you take a right you’ll end up at Sosaewon). It’s a fair bit of uphill, but I promise it’s worth it. It gets rocky towards the top and you’ll start realizing how high up you are!
After a couple of left turns and a couple of climbs/descents, you’ll end up at the overlook. There are actually two overlooks. The one on the left overlooks the Jishil Valley and of course Mudeung National Park.
The overlook is a good place to relax and soak in the views. It’s all downhill from here back to the house so take a break and continue down the trail when you’re ready. When you reach the pine forest you’re very near the end of the trail and its ultimate destination: The National Heritage site of Shikyungjung.
As you exit the pine forest continue walking towards the pagoda and ultimately down the stone staircase.
This small park has four or five pagodas and is a popular tourist attraction for the bus loads of Korean tourists that visit during the summer. It also attracts a lot of photographers and can be very scenic with dramatic changes throughout the year. Here’s my best effort:
From Shikyungjung you will be able to see the poetry museum. Behind the museum you will find a small village road that will take you back to the house and offer one last glimpse of Mudeung National Park.
If you have a bit more time and energy, walk across to the Eco-Park and watch the sun set! Enjoy.
Destination: Yulpo Beach
Yulpo Beach isn’t the best beach in Jeolla-Do by any stretch, but it makes a great place to finish a long day of cycling. A day of cycling through the iconic Boseong green tea fields no-less. And even a shitty beach is still a beach!
This ride starts like most others; head out to the main road and take a left on 887. Even the first 200 meters to the main road has it’s scenic moments!
About 8.5km up the valley you’ll need to take a right on road 897. All I can say is it’s just after the abandoned elementary school, which is on the right side of the road and difficult to miss. This used to be a gravel road, but has recently been paved and is now excellent for cycling!
Continue on this road for about 14km. You’ll wind through a yet another scenic valley and have plenty of opportunities to see Mudeung from it’s less famous back-side. Eventually you’ll head uphill and pass a reservoir.
Just after the reservoir you get to enjoy an absolutely gratifying descent through yet another valley. Climbing this beast from the other direction is grueling so be thankful you’re headed downhill!
At the bottom of the valley you’ll need to take a right (south) on 15. You’ll stay on 15, which for a double digit road isn’t bad at all, for about 16km. Eventually the road intersects with Juam lake which is massive (obviously man-made) and fills in the surrounding valley forming an elongated amoeba shape. This lake, and the overlapping roads and subsequent bridges, could be amazing save for all the garbage collecting in every corner. Frustrating to say the least.
At the junction with 18, where you should take a right, there is a small mart (휴게소) offering an extensive menu of water, chips and ramen. There isn’t much before this so if you’re hungry it works. Good place to stock up on water if nothing else.
18 takes you almost all the way to the beach. It’s a pretty road and, at least when I was there, not too much traffic. I even found a really cool Eco-Park that was completely deserted.
Near Boseong city you will of course start seeing the iconic green tea fields. Don’t waste you time or energy stopping to take photos of the first couple you see. Trust me it gets way better. There are a few small climbs mixed in here, but nothing I remember being too extreme…at least going this direction (if you’re riding back it’s a different story!).
At the bottom of the epic downhill finishing off road 18 you’ll see signs for Yulpo Beach, but if not just take a left on 845. That will take you directly to the beach where you’ll find lots of tacky neon, plenty of minbaks, and copious amounts of cold beer and seafood!
Green tea ice cream no your thing? Plenty of other options here.
I’ve documented a lot of rides around Jeollanam-Do, Damyang specifically, most of which can be found here. Be forewarned, I am not a fan of river path cycling in Korea and this ride is no exception. This particular course loops through the mountains and countyside roads of southern Damyang, just east of Gwangju (riding from Gwangju via Mudueng National Park would add an extra 20ish km each way). The cyclemeter link can be found here.
From The Damyang House the first 20km of this 55km/2.5 hour ride are on road 887…simply head out to the main road and take a left. You’ll climb up through the valley the house is in and ultimately pass through a tunnel.
After the tunnel keep heading straight on 887. It’s clearly marked and an easy ride. The local makoli bootlegger is up on your left, just across from the abandoned elementary school if you’re feeling thirsty.
You’ll eventually pass Aquana, which is the least fun looking resort/water park I’ve ever seen. You’ll also start seeing a lot of signage for the dinosaur footprint park that is close by…it’s a pretty park, but like all the other tourist attractions around here, it’s pretty much empty. Not a bad place to stop for a snack though, just don’t expect much out of those dinosaur footprints.
Keep riding until you see the sign for Daedeok. Take a left here and follow this road through the farming valley. Part of what makes this course so great is that these old valley roads have been left largely unused due to newer, bigger, and faster expressways built over the last couple of decades. Just you and the rice farmers!
There isn’t necessarily a climb to speak of, although you do sort of wind your way up through the valley. You’re met with a nice view at the top and a long decent you’ll feel like you didn’t earn.
Follow this down to the junction with road 60 and take a left towards Changpyeong. More downhill!
At this point you have some options. You could easily explore the “slow city” in Changpyeong, get some lunch and continue on road 60 until it reconnects with 887 which if you take a left, will take you back to the house. You might regret it though as the best has yet to come.
Personally, I recommend taking a left off of road 60 towards Yucheon-ri (유천리) and straight into the belly of this beast:
Even the photo came out scary looking! For good reason as this old unused road takes you pretty much straight over those mountains. It’s not long, maybe 30 minutes (if you’re in shape), but it’s steep (10%) with lots of switchbacks. This is what the road looks like from near the top.
As you slowly start climbing the mountain you will be rewarded with better and better views of Damyang and the surrounding mountain range. I really need to get a proper camera because these photos don’t really do it justice.
A bit mind-blowing, but from this mountain pass it’s downhill all the way to the house. Put on some headphones and enjoy the ride through yet another gorgeous valley. Just don’t forget to take a right when you intersect with road 887!
Your dogs will thank you for the opportunity to run around along these empty service roads!
Dog friendly areas are few and far between in this country, even outside of city limits. I’ve written about some of the dog friendly hiking trails here, but another hidden gem (and more of a walk/less of a hike) is the rice paddies in front of our village or behind the Eco-Park/Gwangju Lake parking lot (if you drive there, walk up the road behind the 7-11).Lucky for us the family friendly Eco-Park attracts all the attention and leaves these intersecting farm roads, connecting a vast stretch of rice paddies, virtually empty. It’s pretty much a “locals only” hangout, which is strange because once in this valley you have almost a 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains…most of which are Mudeung National Park.Once in the valley it’s easy to explore and difficult to get lost. You could walk for 30 minutes or a few hours depending on your route…the options are plentiful. However, just to get you started, this is our “go-to” route for an after dinner dog walk. It’s about 40 minutes and a nice loop. Here’s the cyclemeter link if you think you need it.From the house, walk out to the main road.
Take a right at the main road and look for the service road/bridge that crosses the river…take a left down that road.
Take a left where this road dead-ends (a right will simply take you to the Eco-Park/7-11).
Take the first left down in the rice paddies and feel free to explore! Or continue to follow my directions for the aforementioned 40 minute loop.
Follow this service road as it winds around towards the cows. At the cows, take a left.
And take the next left (about two minutes). And the next left after that (about 10 minutes…you’ll see more cows lol). After that you’ll want to take a left at the pottery studio (which is number 14 on our top 20 things to do at The Damyang House list). Here’s what you’re looking for:
For the next couple of weeks these little guys will be popping up all over the countryside. By far the most psychedelic flower around these parts. Straight from Mars. They don’t stick around very long so get on your bike and head to the countryside soon!