TDH Updates: October 2015 – Artists Eric Davis and Chung Park

Artist Eric Davis

Artist Chung Park

The outdoor gallery continues to grow.  These two new works help tie in different corners of the property and add to the overall aesthetic of the house.  They complement the natural surroundings better than I could have imagined.  The pictures don’t really do them justice!

First, we have the Ruddy Kingfisher by artist Eric Davis.  Nothing about the subject matter or placement is random.  Anyone involved in the birding community in Korea (all 10 of us!) knows we’ve had a returning Kingfisher the last two summers.  It’s significant because it’s the bird that really got me to open my eyes and ears and look up at all the wildlife in the trees.  Bird watching also happens to be a great accompaniment to day-dreaming and sipping makoli, so ties in well with the other activities common around the house.

Continue reading “TDH Updates: October 2015 – Artists Eric Davis and Chung Park”

Bike’n Hike Update and Summary

The “Bike’n Hike” concept was born out of a failed backpacking trip to Jirisan National Park in February of 2014. The logistics of that trip, for whatever reason, weren’t coming together and out of frustration we got out our wall map of Jeolla-Do and started looking for alternatives.  Naejangsan National Park, the closest to Gwangju, was an obvious alternative choice.  Within about 15 minutes Jirisan was long forgotten, our bikes had replaced our car, and our first Bike’n Hike tour was organized and ready to go.
Continue reading “Bike’n Hike Update and Summary”

Bike’n Hike (IX): Jirisan National Park

Destination: Jirisan National Park
Cycling:  164 km
Hiking:  20 km
Days:  3

Jirisan National Park, the destination of the 9th Bike’n Hike, is downright intimidating. It commands a lot of superlatives (biggest, oldest, highest) and having cycled and hiked there on separate occasions, I knew exactly what I was in for. I could have easily canceled the trip for any number of reasons; thunderstorms were on the way and it wasn’t exactly the best time for a three-day bike tour. Truth be told, I was just afraid I wouldn’t make it to the finish line! In fact I did make it and it wasn’t all that dramatic.  Fun actually.  Here’s all the gory details:

Day 1 (cycling): TDH to Jirisan National Park – 84 kilometers

Leaving the village
Day one and three could easily be switched as they are nearly equal in terms of length and difficulty.  Together they make a nice loop around Jeollanam-Do and avoid having to back-track.  I chose to take the “southern” route first, which takes you towards Dongbok Lake and then Suncheon, before turning north towards Gurye, just outside of the park.  Here’s the cyclemeter link.
Like all rides from the house you start on road 887.  Take a left out of the village and head up the mountain where you’ll briefly enter Mudeung National Park.  There’s a tunnel at the top so it’s not much of a climb.  It’s a nice valley, decent roads and very little traffic.  Not a bad way to start the day. 
 Road 887
Around the 12km mark you’ll need to find the sign below for the turnoff…the road is unnamed on my maps.  This takes you through a small village and around the northern tip of the lake.  It’s easy and scenic and a HUGE time saver.  Cycling around the southern tip of the lake is much more challenging with at least three climbs of varying size and difficulty.  Wish I would have found this shortcut sooner!
Turn right here
 Countryside village bus stop

Dongbok Lake

It’s all much more scenic than it looks…the weather wasn’t cooperating and the early morning light wasn’t helping either.  Just past the lake you’ll pick up 15, but it’s not long after (7km) that you’ll need to jump on 22.  You need to follow 22 until you find 18, which takes you directly to the park entrance (Hwaeomsa), where you’ll find accommodations and food.  Sounds confusing, but these roads are all well marked…just keep heading towards either Suncheon or Gurye.  Additionally it’s top-notch cycling!  Gorgeous valleys and no major climbs to worry about.  Wind is more of an issue than elevation. 

The photos above and below are the same valley.  Weather makes a big difference!

Heading to Jirisan
 Heading to Jirisan 
 Just outside Gurye
After you pass through Gurye (easy…just stay on 18) you’ll eventually need to turn off and head up towards Hwaeomsa Temple.  These last 4km are by far the hardest!  It’s a slow finish, but once you’re there you just need to sort out accommodation and food.  Both of which will be at your fingertips.
There are quite a few pension/minbak options.  I settled on the first pension I walked into because: A) I was tired and hungry.  B) The owner was friendly and willing to let me keep my bike indoors.  Not to mention the room had cable and wifi…I was on my own and there isn’t much nightlife so this was an added bonus.  화엄각팬션 can be found right behind the main parking lot.  You can’t miss it.  The room was 40,000/night. 
 The room
 The view
The pension
The business card
There are a few restaurant options available right across the street from the cluster of pensions.  The menus are all pretty much the same and feature all the countryside classics you would expect in a tourist area just outside a national park.  But unless you’re traveling with a group, you’ll be limited to two or three (at the most) options on the menu.   Traveling solo SUCKS in this regard…bibimbap and pajeon were on heavy rotation because everything else was for groups of four or more.  Thankfully they don’t apply these rules the dongdong-ju.  
 산채전 and a thunderstorm

Day 2 (hiking):  Hwaeomsa to Nogodan Ridge

Day 2 of course started out with more bibimbap, before entering the park and walking the kilometer or so to Hwaeomsa Temple.  The trail up the mountain starts just behind the temple, and while you do have the option of simply walking around the temple, I highly recommend walking through the temple instead.  It’s an impressive temple.  Very well maintained and very active.  Chanting and drums at 9am is a pretty fun start to any day of hiking.  Once you walk out the small back gate of the temple, turn right and look for the wooden bridge.  For the next 3+ hours you will be hiking uphill!

 1500 meters straight up!

 Monk chanting

Unfortunately this park entrance, the closest entrance in terms of cycling, doesn’t offer anything in terms of a “loop” hike.  You don’t have much option but to hike 10km up to the top and then head back down the way you came.  It definitely isn’t an easy hike and takes a solid three hours to get to the top (at least two heading down).  The last two kilometers are by far the steepest and slowest.  Not very many people on the trail during this trip so it was nice to have the forest to myself for once.

 Bridge leading into the park


At the top you’ll find a ranger station, and area to cook your noodles and even a little shop to buy ice cream.  The trails near the peak are well maintained and oddly busy.  It took me a minute to figure out that everyone else had driven nearly to the top via the service roads and “hiked” only a kilometer or two.  Cheaters.  
The top of the mountain was covered in clouds when I arrived so I was only able to see just enough to let me know I was missing out on some killer views!  Bummer.  Still pretty though.  
 Trail to the top
The trail
 The top!
The view

 The trail back down
 Blue flowers

Day 3 (cycling):  Jirisan National Park to TDH – 84 kilometers

Getting home via the “northern” route is a great way to end the trip as it follows a scenic river valley the first half of the day.  There is even a semi-decent bike path if you want to avoid the quick trucks on the road (recommended).  Here’s the cyclemeter link.  

When you head out of Guyre, stay on road 17 and follow the river to Gokseong.  Pretty easy!  If nothing else look for this MASSIVE bridge.

 Leaving Gurye
 River valley
 Bike path
 River valley
Bike path
In Gokseong you’ll pick up road 60, then 27 and finally back on 60.  Follow signs to Gwangju and then Damyang and when you’re closer, look for signs to Soesaewon, which is the National Heritage Site next to the house.  Again it sounds confusing, but it’s pretty easy with the maps linked above.  It’s all quiet countryside.  

With stops for lunch and snacks it took me a little over five hours to get home.  Plenty of time left in the afternoon for a nap and a BBQ!

Already been to Jirisan?  Plenty of other suggestions can be found here

Bike’n Hike (VIII): Geumseongsanseong Fortress Wall (담양 금성산성)

Destination:  Geumseongsanseong Fortress Wall (담양 금성산성)
Cycling:  62km
Hiking:  9km

Days: 1



The original Bike’n Hike trip to the Damyang Fortress Wall was scheduled during a weekend back in January, but it was actually snowed out.   Fast forward a couple seasons and it was finally time to pull the trigger on this one day adventure.  Glad I did because not only was the weather perfect, but the fortress wall itself is way more impressive than I anticipated (or remembered).  To top it off, we stopped at DamJu Brewery (bamboo beer!) on the way home and the owner gave us a private tour of the place and free beers!  Win.Getting to the fortress wall from the house is fairly painless and only takes about 90 minutes.  Disregard what Naver Maps will tell you and avoid road 29 until after you reach “downtown” Damyang.  Instead take road 887…that’s the road our village is on and it’s a much more scenic ride (and considerably less traffic…in fact road 29 south of Damyang is borderline dangerous).  Here’s the cyclemeter link to help with directions.


Leaving the village.

 Damyang countryside.

887 will take you into Damyang where you will pick-up 29.  Follow the signs.

Once through Damyang you’ll have Chuwolsan to keep you company (the big rocky mountain).


This is the small farming road you’ll need to turn right onto.  It’s unmarked so check the map.  This will bring you out just north of The Damyang Resort, where the park entrance is.

Just past The Damyang Resort (or just before if you arrive from the other direction) you’ll see this sign pointing to Geumseongsanseong.

Head up the road 2km to the park entrance.

Once you reach the parking lot, you can lock up your bike and get a look at the map.  It’s a pretty simple park, but you still have options.  Basically you will hike up to the “South Gate” and from there you will either take the trail hiking the perimeter of the park, essentially walking along the fortress wall and hitting all the “Gates”, or you will cut through the park via the valley trail and then hike back to the South Gate by using either the east or west mountain fortress wall trails.

I chose to hike down through the valley and back around via the eastern fortress wall trails, only because I had seen a bit of the western half of the park in the past.  Here was my route: 보국문 – 충용문 – 보국사터 – 서문 – 북문 – 운대봉 – 동문 – 내성 – 충용문 – 보국문.  This particular route was 9km in total (~4 hours).

The park isn’t labeled very well in certain areas, at least compared with your average National Park, but it’s difficult to get truly lost because it’s simply not a very big park.  At times we thought we had lost the trail because: A) we were hiking on the fortress wall which just seems wrong considering it’s a billion years old (seriously it was reconstructed in the 1400’s) and B) it was at times pretty dangerous with rocky trails, and steep drop-offs (“This can’t be the trail!”).  Having said that, we were never “lost” for more than a few minutes.

 Hiking into the park.

 First entrance into the fortress wall.  보국문.

Approaching 보국문 from the other side.

The second entrance.  충용문.


충용문 from further up the western fortress wall trail.

The view from this second entrance, 충용문, is where you can really start to see how high up you already are.  It was a bit hazy this day, but the views of the valley and surrounding mountains are pretty impressive…and this is only the first kilometer of the hike.  From here you can also see the iconic views of the first entrance, 보국문.  This is pretty much what pops up if you google image search Geumseongsanseong.  Wish I had a better camera!




From here I headed down into the valley and followed the signs toward 서문.   The valley is a quick easy hike, which is good because the next section from 서문 to 복문 was by far the most difficult.  You have to hike back up to the ridge line which is pretty steep.  It’s amazing to see how much of the wall remains intact and hard not to imagine what led them to build and maintain such a massive structure.  Luckily you’ll have plenty of time to think it over because from here you follow the wall all the way up to the ridge line and then all the way back around to where you started.

Damyang Lake.

복문 is a great place to stop, relax and enjoy some makoli because most the climbing is out of the way.  It’s not exactly an easy hike back to your bike, but there aren’t any stairs either.  The views are incredible at this gate as well so it’s a good place to catch your breath and grab a few photos.


Jojo made it.

This next part of the hike is where it gets a bit dodgy.  It’s rocky with steep drop offs and it’s not always clear where to go.  Seems most of the trails eventually link up whenever they split, but it does help to pay attention during this stretch.  Maybe save the makoli for the end of the hike!  The views are pretty much 360 degrees during this stretch and you can actually climb up to one of the peaks.  It’s pretty intense.

From here you hike back down and pass through the two main gates that brought you into the park.  It’s all downhill back to your bike so it’s quick and painless.  Normally we’d call it a day at this point, but as luck would have it, the DamJu Brewery was on the way home.  I’ve raved about this place in the past and have been anxious to get back there during the warmer months to enjoy that outdoor seating…I couldn’t imagine a better time or circumstance.

Needless to say, this rooftop beer garden is amazing.  The views are extensive and look out over the surrounding rice paddies and mountains.  There were even a bunch of paragliders cruising around over the open countryside right in front of the Brewery.  With all of these healthy distractions it’s easy to forget you still have another 20km to ride!

Two of the three paragliders.

The owners are really friendly and because it was before the dinner service, they joined us for a beer and even showed us around the brewery.

Pretty incredible end to an already fun day.  The ride home from the Brewery is just one road, the 887, so it’s not only difficult to get lost, but it’s also flat.  And it always guarantees nice views!

Tired of fortress walls?  Plenty of other options here.

TDH Updates: May 2015 – City Apartment Renovation

We’ve gotten a lot of messages from people interested in our adventure of buying and renovating The Damyang House over the last year or two, so thought our latest renovation project might be of some interest as well.  This time we were looking for an apartment in the city; a task and project that was considerably easier and cheaper (and not nearly as dramatic), but not without its headaches!

By most accounts our approach to Korean real estate is completely backwards.  While most compete to bid on the newest move-in-ready developments in desirable neighborhoods, we have spent our time doing the exact opposite.  This approach could be due to years of watching HGTV, but is more realistically a result of financial necessity;  Korean real estate is crazy expensive.  The aforementioned “dream apartment” goes for almost 400 million (in Gwangju at least)…we ended up with a house in the countryside and a nice city apartment for substantially less than that.  Sure sacrifices were made (apartment location is great, but neighborhood lacks), but overall we’re pretty happy with the result.

The 32 pyeong(1200 sq ft)/3 bedroom apartment we settled on is in a complex that was “the shit” back in the day, or so I’m told.  Today it’s a bit rundown and filled mostly with an older generation that couldn’t care less about moving to a trendy neighborhood or the working class who can’t afford to.

The selling points for me were simple.  First, the location.  Geographically we’re in a good location and getting anywhere is quick and easy.  The main bus terminal is a five minute walk, both jobs are a ten minute drive, downtown is a few kilometers away and the expressway to the house is close by.  Second, the view.  Simply put it’s a fantastic view.  We looked at a couple dozen apartments before stamping papers on this one and I can assure you having any sort of view other than another building or a parking-lot is a luxury.

Renovations only took a few weeks and included new floors, mouldings, wallpaper, lighting, doors, custom kitchen and bathroom, some new windows and just about everything else you would expect in a top-to-bottom renovation.   Here are a few before and after photos of the main rooms.

Living Room:  Pretty straight forward.  New floors, wallpaper and most importantly: new lighting!  The utility space at the front of the room had already been reclaimed and renovated by the previous owner so that saved us a bit of money.





Kitchen:  Plans A, B and C were all aborted for one reason or another.  Mostly because of strict rules regarding cutting any of the walls.  Even widening the main entryway was denied.  The utility space in the rear of the kitchen was reclaimed and made more of a usable space.  We had to replace the windows, and raise the floor about six inches so it was all much more complicated than it looks.  Sort of a funky layout for a kitchen, but it’s the only option we had left!


The utility space



Bathroom:  What a nightmare this space was.  I wish I had better photos so you could see how low the ceiling was.  It was a very cave-like bathroom.  We had to raise the ceiling and replace everything in here.  The goal was to make it brighter and a bit less scary.




Master Bedroom:  Old Korean apartments have utility space between every room and the outside windows.  Additionally, the inside windows are often frosted.  Design-wise it’s a bizarre setup, but probably made sense from a heating standpoint as old apartment windows aren’t very efficient!  We opted to take out the inside windows, reclaim the utility space and essentially bring the outside windows into the bedroom.  Our contractor already thinks I’m insane so he didn’t even flinch at this request (but did tell us a million times how cold we would be….he was wrong.  Our apartment has the old boiler system which cannot be adjusted so it’s constantly too hot, even in the winter).  We again had to raise the floors in the utility space to make it flush with the floors in the living room and bedroom.




Restaurant Review: 들플부빔 (비빔밥)



Both 들플 restaurants are run by the same family.  The mother runs the larger 한정식 (han jung shik) restaurant serving ddeokgalbi (of course) and the son runs the nearby bibimbap restaurant; the focus of this review.  They’re both located right across from the Gwangju Lake dam (map) and because they’re just a few kilometers from the house, were some of the first restaurants we visited.  Unfortunately our first visits to both were lackluster and because there are so many other restaurants around, we never really went back and simply forgot about them.

That is until about a month ago.  During at least three unrelated conversations with three very different people, the name of this place came up.  It’s not exactly an inconvenient location and our initial visit wasn’t necessarily bad, so we headed back to see what, if anything had changed.

Sure enough, the signage outside was new.  Possible renovation?  A good sign (no pun) nonetheless.



I remember our first visit being sort of uncomfortable because it was so empty and quiet inside.  Needless to say we were shocked when we walked into a full and absolutely bustling restaurant.  I had to go back the next day just before opening time to get the second (people-free) picture of the dining room.


The menu offers some classics (육회/멍개/불고기), a vegetarian option (산채), and at least one I’ve never even seen before (청국장공).  A pretty solid selection.

While you wait for your bibimbap, you’re served a small appetizer of cooked pork, onions and garlic to be eaten bossam style with a variety of leafy greens and a homemade 쌈장 sauce.  There is also a small spicy salad (think fresh lettuce kimche) and a side of acorn jelly.  Sounds simple, but it was damn tasty.

The bibimbap comes out just about when you’ve finished these snacks.  It arrives as a stacked combo; the heavy dolsot bowl/rice on the bottom and a large brass bowl filled with your bibimbap selection on top.  Another large brass plate with homemade kimches.  A+ for presentation for sure.

If you’re off the beaten path far enough to end up in a place like this, you probably already know to scoop your rice out of the dolsot bowl and into the brass bowl.  The kettle on the table is used to fill up your dolsot bowl and should be set aside while you eat.  This will make “rice porridge” and is typically what you eat last (it’ll be piping hot so you don’t have much of a choice).  Depending on which type of bibimbab you order you will either mix in gochujang or a soy based sauce.

At 9,000won I’d actually consider this place cheap considering both how much you get and the quality of what you get.  I’ve been back a couple of times in the last two weeks just to make sure it wasn’t a fluke (we were famished during our initial return visit) and I can assure you everything on the menu is delicious…choosing a favorite would be tough!!

Looking for something else?  Plenty of other restaurant recommendation can be found here.

TDH Updates: April 2015 – Artist Chung Park

 Photo by: Diaz

Seoul based artist Chung Park has left his mark on Jeollanam-Do, both literally and figuratively.  Having two exhibits under his belt at the new up-and-coming Salt Art Gallery located in Gwangju, he’s no stranger to the area.  We were happy to snag the “Beacon” piece at the first show and have it proudly on display in the entrance way of the house; it’s the first thing you see when you enter.

My increasing obsession with sotdae (솟대) is directly proportional to the amount of time I’ve spent in the countryside over the last couple of years.  They’re easy to write off as “ducks on a stick”, but like most things in Asian culture have a much deeper meaning and significance.  Disney, unfortunately, has done no favors for these sacred migratory birds in western culture.  In contrast, here’s an example of one of many quotes on the Wikipedia page for sotdae, “It was believed that ducks travel to the world beyond the Earth and act as a messenger between the physical world and the realm of the spirits.”  Damn. 

It’s no secret Chung is a friend of The Damyang House, so convincing him to bring his talents back down to Jeolla-Do once more for a mural at the house was an easy sell.  Finding time was another story.  Alas, the planets aligned and it all came together this past weekend.  Sotdae now guard both entrances of the house and add a splash of color to an otherwise empty outside wall space.  

It was an action packed weekend at the house and we’re happy to share all the gory details.  Special thanks to Jay Diaz for helping to both participate in, and document the madness.  

Day 1 – Chung gets started:

The wall
The sketch

 Not as easy at it looks. Photo by: Diaz

Chung working; Diaz documenting
 Photo by: Diaz

Photo by: Diaz

Johan (Salt Art Gallery) looks in.  Photo by: Diaz
 Photo by: Diaz

 Photo by: Diaz

 Photo by: Diaz
Day 2 – We went for a hike and left Chung to his work. 
Photo by: Diaz

Photo by: Diaz


The artist sleeps! Photo by: Diaz

Day 3 – Finished work.

Photo by: Diaz

Chung eats a well deserved kimche jiggae at 왕가녜.

Well deserved thank you’s to Chung Park for the mural, Jay Diaz for the photos and Riser for hosting…and the whole crew for putting up with me for the weekend. Boom!

Restaurant Review: 황가네 (Eco-Park Restaurant)


I’ve spent a lot of time at this restaurant over the years so it goes without saying I’m a bit biased and probably couldn’t give an objective review even if I wanted to.  However, judging by the reaction of family and friends I think I’m justified in giving this no-frills restaurant an enthusiastic two thumbs up.This place is well known amongst locals, mostly due to the cheap prices and pungent flavors (seriously the kimche at this place is beyond “fermented”!), but also has it’s fair share of signatures on the wall from visiting local/national celebrities.  Famous or not, this place is packed with customers during mealtimes, mostly ordering the star of the show:  the kimchee jiggae.  The kimchee jiggae (see photo above) is made with the aforementioned “funky” kimchee, but is also chocked full of pork and homemade green tea tofu.  Best 6,000 you’ll ever spend!

The green tea tofu can be ordered on it’s own (comes with dipping sauce) and will usually be served with the ban-chan before your main dish arrives.  It’s fresh.  It’s delicious.  Order some to-go on your way out!

Speaking of ban-chan, the six pictured above are usually what you get…the portions are certainly representative of Jeolla-Do (read: large) and refills often happen whether you ask or not.  The ban-chan (and food for that matter) is definitely on the salty side, but most good Korean food is.  The menu has a few different options, all of which you would expect to find in a place like this, but honestly I never venture far from the kimchee jiggae.  They are accommodating for vegetarians as well, but make sure you ask (everything except the tofu itself has meat and/or seafood in it).

Kimchee Jiggae, Ban-Chan and Green Tea Tofu


순두부 지께

Getting there from the house is easy.  Head towards the Eco-Park (take a right on the main road and a left at the gas station) and continuing walking past the park entrance (it should be on your right) for another few minutes.  The restaurant will be on your right and looks like this:

Stop by next time you’re in the area…you won’t regret it!
Looking for something else?  Plenty of other restaurant recommendations can be found here.

Restaurant Review: Hwansun Black Tofu (달맞이 흑두부)



Black tofu restaurants can be found littered throughout the Korean countryside and the Damyang area is no exception.  Unfortunately I wouldn’t recommend the two I’ve visited in Damyang (the one across from Sosaewon and the one across from Sanggyo both received a thumbs down) and instead will point you in the direction of the DalMatJi Black Tofu Restaurants.

The two I know of, have been to, and would recommend, are in Gwangju (신창동) and Hwansun.  The Hwansun branch is of particulary importance because it’s on road 817 which is a road frequently used by cyclists.  The “beast route” and the route I use to Wolchulsan National Park both use this road.  There is tons of good food along this road, and oddly enough, a plethora of Damyang style galbi restaurants!

The traditional hanok style restaurant is easily visible from the road and will be on your right if you’re headed toward Gwangju.  The decor inside maintains the traditional theme and has seating for groups of just about any size, although it’s limited to floor seating.


No surprises on the menu; it offers a variety of tofu dishes as well as bossam (pork) and jeon.  I’ve only eaten the beosut jeonguel (버섯전골), but made sure to make everyone else in the restaurant uncomfortable by staring at their menu choices.  It all looked delicious.

The banchan was small and boring by Jeolla-Do standards, but refill requests were gladly granted.

The mushroom stew (버섯전골), however, was impressive and plentiful.  It only takes a few minutes for the veggies to cook down before it’s ready to eat and if it cooks down too much you can simply ask for more broth (called 육수).

It’s not the cheapest lunch option around, but well worth the price for the quality and quantity that you’re given.  Not to mention it’s a beautiful restaurant and a fun place to take visitors or stop by while you’re out exploring the countryside.  Enjoy!

Looking for a bit more meat in your diet?  Plenty of other restaurant suggestions can be found here

Restaurant Review: Eco-Park Restaurant – 엄마손맛집 (Mom’s Food)




This little gem of a restaurant has been sitting under our nose for the last year and a half, and for one reason or another we never walked through the doors and sat down for a meal.  Thankfully a day out with the Gwangju Birds Korea Group put this place on our radar and we’ve been back multiple times since.

The restaurant is located directly in front of the parking lot entrance for the Gwangju Lake Eco-Park.  Here’s the google map.

Upon entering it’s pretty clear chunggukjang (청국장) is the star of the show at this spot.  If you’ve never had it, it stinks…in a good way.  The interior is small, but that’s understandable considering the entire operation is run by an adorable elderly Korean couple.  The 할아버지 (grandpa) runs the front of the house and the 할머니 (grandma) cooks the food.  They’re both ultra friendly and a little Korean and a smile goes a long way in a place like this.



The menu is simple and reflective of the location by offering some true Korean countryside classics.



The steamed chicken (백숙) is served EVERYWHERE around here and I can almost guarantee I know a better place to get it (남향가든 just around the corner) so stick with the cheaper (and faster!) menu items.  The zucchini stew (애호박찌개) isn’t shy with either the zucchini or the pork and uses the 닭도리탕 broth (a bit on the sweet side).  It’s delicious, but the Chunggukjang (청국장) is much better in my opinion.  It’s the real deal.


 청국장 (to be fair this was take-out)

The Seafood Jeon (해물파전) is the unsung hero of this place.  It’s amazing.  Better than the soups.  Better than most of the Jeon around Damyang.  This is what my friends originally recommended and for good reason.






Additionally, if you’re a fan of Korean food and strong flavor, you’ll love the banchan at this place and similar places around the neighborhood.  They’re made with local ingredients, in-house, with pride and without short-cuts.  Restaurants in North America would advertise this to ad-nausea, but around here it’s just what’s expected.  Those massive re-purposed water jugs behind you with fermenting locally-grown garlic?  They’ll be on your table in a few weeks.  The owners were making the dried anchovy banchan when we arrived and were so proud of it they gave us a healthy portion to take home when we left. Amazing.




 Looks like Kalguksu (칼국수) takes center stage during the warmer months, but personally I’ll be returning for the makoli and pajeon!

Not interested in locally grown food cooked with care?  Here’s a few more options you proably wont’ like.